It's strange how your body and mind become programmed. Yesterday, the first day of rest after completing the Coast to Coast walk, I honestly felt that I should have been walking another 12 to 18 miles!
In talking to Nicky and Chris, during and after we finished the walk, we all agreed that we would like to do the walk again. Possibly take a few more days and use B&Bs, pubs, hotels, Youth Hostels for accommodation along the route. During the fortnight we came in contact with many others on the same adventure ranging from single people to large groups. Leap frogging each other on different sections mainly just passing pleasantries. Some we helped with route finding, others offered us help or snippets of advice. There was a community feel about the walk which we were possibly on the edge of by using our three base camps.
While signing the Coast to Coast Register in The Bay Hotel at the end of the walk, a couple who we had passed pleasantries with during the last week, came over and shook our hands. We congratulated each other for completing the walk as they had finished just an hour before us. This confirmed to us some of the comradery that we may have missed. Using B&Bs at each night's destination may have allowed us to meet fellow walkers, share stories and learn from others. Maybe next time....?
-- Posted from my iPhone
A blog about my adventures on foot or other modes of transport
Tuesday 28 June 2011
Monday 27 June 2011
End of day 14 - Last Day
We started walking at 9:45am, a little later than we'd planned. Chris was complaining his feet were really painful first thing, something that he'd not experienced previously. Nicky could hardly walk from the effect of wind burn around her knees. As for the old'un, physically I was fine just suffering from the normal early morning stiffness. I was just having mixed thoughts, looking forward to reaching Robin Hood's Bay, but also sad that thus was the last day.
We set off after Ros dropped us off at the Arncliffe Arms in Glaisdale. This was a day of approximately 19 miles with around 1640 feet of ascent. A long day ahead for our last section. Adding to the challenge it was possibly going to be the hottest day of the fortnight, as nice as it sounds, not ideal walking conditions.
Glaisdale to Grosmont was a pleasant 3.5 mile walk through the Esk Valley. Our timing into Grosmont could not have been better. The 11:30am departure for Pickering on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway was being prepared. After Nicky had treated us to ice creams we wandered around the railway station soaking in the smells of smoke and steam. If only that smell could be bottled......
The climb out of Grosmont was then attacked. This was approximately 700 feet in 1.5 miles up on to Sleights Moor. Some sections at a gradient of 1:3.... with sun beating down it was a tough climb. As encouragement on the way we were treated to views of Whitby and the North Sea. At the top. In the distance we could see the depression that Robin Hood's Bay nestled in.
Littlebeck was our next destination. This was approximately a 700 foot descent down to the picturesque village. Then a gentle muddy ascent along the wooded valley to the Falling Foss waterfall. Followed by a gradual climb up to Sneaton Low Moor. From here it was downhill to Hawsker and the Coastal path to Robin Hood's Bay. This was not without some cursing of Mr. Wainwright. This final section is a loop that took us north with Whitby in full view, walking away from our destination!! Then east to join the Coastal path. Then south around the coast to Robin Hood's Bay. When we rounded Ness Point we realised why. Our destination is seen. The whole bay comes into view from Ravenscar around to The Bay Hotel rising above the sea wall where a deserved pint awaits.
Before the pint is reached we have to descend to the beach to dip our boots in the North Sea. Despatching our pebbles we have carried from St. Bees into the waves we carry out the summary pats on backs for a job well done.
That's it...... We have walked from Coast to Coast. Through all weathers apart from snow. Across peaks, moors, valleys, and fields. Along paths, bridleways, lanes and some roads. A most enjoyable two weeks....
NB. The missing days' postings will be added ASAP. Photographs will be added over the next feww weeks as I filter through the many we have taken.
-- Posted from my iPhone
We set off after Ros dropped us off at the Arncliffe Arms in Glaisdale. This was a day of approximately 19 miles with around 1640 feet of ascent. A long day ahead for our last section. Adding to the challenge it was possibly going to be the hottest day of the fortnight, as nice as it sounds, not ideal walking conditions.
Esk River
Glaisdale to Grosmont was a pleasant 3.5 mile walk through the Esk Valley. Our timing into Grosmont could not have been better. The 11:30am departure for Pickering on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway was being prepared. After Nicky had treated us to ice creams we wandered around the railway station soaking in the smells of smoke and steam. If only that smell could be bottled......
The climb out of Grosmont was then attacked. This was approximately 700 feet in 1.5 miles up on to Sleights Moor. Some sections at a gradient of 1:3.... with sun beating down it was a tough climb. As encouragement on the way we were treated to views of Whitby and the North Sea. At the top. In the distance we could see the depression that Robin Hood's Bay nestled in.
Littlebeck was our next destination. This was approximately a 700 foot descent down to the picturesque village. Then a gentle muddy ascent along the wooded valley to the Falling Foss waterfall. Followed by a gradual climb up to Sneaton Low Moor. From here it was downhill to Hawsker and the Coastal path to Robin Hood's Bay. This was not without some cursing of Mr. Wainwright. This final section is a loop that took us north with Whitby in full view, walking away from our destination!! Then east to join the Coastal path. Then south around the coast to Robin Hood's Bay. When we rounded Ness Point we realised why. Our destination is seen. The whole bay comes into view from Ravenscar around to The Bay Hotel rising above the sea wall where a deserved pint awaits.
Before the pint is reached we have to descend to the beach to dip our boots in the North Sea. Despatching our pebbles we have carried from St. Bees into the waves we carry out the summary pats on backs for a job well done.
That's it...... We have walked from Coast to Coast. Through all weathers apart from snow. Across peaks, moors, valleys, and fields. Along paths, bridleways, lanes and some roads. A most enjoyable two weeks....
NB. The missing days' postings will be added ASAP. Photographs will be added over the next feww weeks as I filter through the many we have taken.
-- Posted from my iPhone
Sunday 26 June 2011
Last day
Today is our last day. Robin Hoods Bay is just a 8 hours walk away.......we hope.
This just a very quick update to report all is well and we are still on schedule.
I am behind with entries on this blog due to tiredness at the end of day 11, packing at the start of day 12, and an incident during day 12 that entailed a late evening visit to Middlesbrough hospital....
I'm trying to catchup but previous day's entries will be posted ASAP.
-- Posted from my iPhone
This just a very quick update to report all is well and we are still on schedule.
I am behind with entries on this blog due to tiredness at the end of day 11, packing at the start of day 12, and an incident during day 12 that entailed a late evening visit to Middlesbrough hospital....
I'm trying to catchup but previous day's entries will be posted ASAP.
-- Posted from my iPhone
Saturday 25 June 2011
Day 13 - Clay Bank Top to Glaisdale
Fortunately, after the previous evening's drama, Ros felt that she could drive back to the cottage as long as I drove to the drop off point. This would be reversed in the evening with Ros driving to collect us and myself driving back to base camp cottage. So luckily all three of us could continue with the walk. Phew......
This section was approximately 17 miles with about 1015 feet of ascent, 600 feet of which was in the first two miles.
It was a misty start to the day with a strong wind trying to clear the clouds off the tops of the moors. As we approached the summit of Urra Moor (Round Hill) the mist was still lingering.
At 1475 feet this is the highest point on the Cleveland Hills. Continuing on we met the Rosedale Ironstone Railway where we left the Cleveland Way which headed north. Our path followed the trackbed of the railway as it twisted its way across the moors for five miles to Blakey Ridge. By then the wind was increasing in strength and all low mist had cleared leaving us with clear views of the surrounding moors and dales.
Farndale from the old Rosedale Ironstone Railway track bed.
On reaching Blakey Ridge we called in at The Lion pub for a quick pint and bite to eat. Fully refreshed we headed off for three miles of road walking. During which we rounded the head of Danby Dale and caught a glimpse of the cottage that was our current base camp. A path was then used to round the head of Fryup Dale before we started the descent to Glaisdale using a bridleway along Glaisdale
Fryup Dale
Since leaving Round Hill most of our route was flattish, any ascent being soon accomplished with little effort. As such this was the first day we'd finished earlier than expected......
Damage report:
Nicky wore short shorts today and caught the the wind around her knees; Chris and the old man seemed to have just the normal aches after a long march.
-- Posted from my iPhone
This section was approximately 17 miles with about 1015 feet of ascent, 600 feet of which was in the first two miles.
It was a misty start to the day with a strong wind trying to clear the clouds off the tops of the moors. As we approached the summit of Urra Moor (Round Hill) the mist was still lingering.
At 1475 feet this is the highest point on the Cleveland Hills. Continuing on we met the Rosedale Ironstone Railway where we left the Cleveland Way which headed north. Our path followed the trackbed of the railway as it twisted its way across the moors for five miles to Blakey Ridge. By then the wind was increasing in strength and all low mist had cleared leaving us with clear views of the surrounding moors and dales.
Farndale from the old Rosedale Ironstone Railway track bed.
On reaching Blakey Ridge we called in at The Lion pub for a quick pint and bite to eat. Fully refreshed we headed off for three miles of road walking. During which we rounded the head of Danby Dale and caught a glimpse of the cottage that was our current base camp. A path was then used to round the head of Fryup Dale before we started the descent to Glaisdale using a bridleway along Glaisdale
Fryup Dale
Since leaving Round Hill most of our route was flattish, any ascent being soon accomplished with little effort. As such this was the first day we'd finished earlier than expected......
Damage report:
Nicky wore short shorts today and caught the the wind around her knees; Chris and the old man seemed to have just the normal aches after a long march.
-- Posted from my iPhone
Friday 24 June 2011
End of day 12 - Ingleby Cross to Clay bank Top
This was a roller coaster ride across the top of the Cleveland Hills. 11.5 miles with 2550 feet of ascent. It was also another moving day. Moving base camp to a cottage in Danby Dale.
It was a late start after packing and loading Ros's car. Sue took us to Ingleby Cross for midday leaving Ros to do the final cleaning of the lodge and move to the cottage.
As we climbed from Ingleby Cross our path met the Cleveland Way which was to be our route for the rest of the day. At the top of the climb we were greeted with fine views across the Vale of Mowbray. It looked a long way back to the edge of the Yorkshire Dales...
As we progressed around the northern edge of the Cleveland Hills we were treated to more fantastic views and as we looked over Teesside we had our first glimpses of the North Sea....
The Cleveland Way took us over, 8 ascents during the day which did take its toll. Towards the end of the day I received a call that put continuing the walk in jeopardy. Ros, while unloading the car at the new base camp, had fallen down the stairs. There were concerns that she had broken her right wrist. The cottage owner kindly offered to meet us at Clay Bank Top at 6:30pm while his wife took Ros to a local doctor. When we reached the cottage Ros had her arm in a sling and a trip to Middlesbrough hospital was required for an X-ray. To cut a long story short luckily nothing was broken but she was in some pain from bruising to hand, wrist, back, leg and ankle. We were still not 100% certain that she could drive......more would be known in the morning.
-- Posted from my iPhone
It was a late start after packing and loading Ros's car. Sue took us to Ingleby Cross for midday leaving Ros to do the final cleaning of the lodge and move to the cottage.
As we climbed from Ingleby Cross our path met the Cleveland Way which was to be our route for the rest of the day. At the top of the climb we were greeted with fine views across the Vale of Mowbray. It looked a long way back to the edge of the Yorkshire Dales...
As we progressed around the northern edge of the Cleveland Hills we were treated to more fantastic views and as we looked over Teesside we had our first glimpses of the North Sea....
The Cleveland Way took us over, 8 ascents during the day which did take its toll. Towards the end of the day I received a call that put continuing the walk in jeopardy. Ros, while unloading the car at the new base camp, had fallen down the stairs. There were concerns that she had broken her right wrist. The cottage owner kindly offered to meet us at Clay Bank Top at 6:30pm while his wife took Ros to a local doctor. When we reached the cottage Ros had her arm in a sling and a trip to Middlesbrough hospital was required for an X-ray. To cut a long story short luckily nothing was broken but she was in some pain from bruising to hand, wrist, back, leg and ankle. We were still not 100% certain that she could drive......more would be known in the morning.
-- Posted from my iPhone
Day 12
The far hills are where we started yesterday. That was a long 23 miles.....
-- Posted from my iPhone
Thursday 23 June 2011
Day 11 - Richmond to Ingelby Cross
This was the day we had been dreading. 23 miles across the Vale of Mowbray. After passing through the Lakes, Pennines, then the Yorkshire Dales, we thought the Vale would seem featureless. Not that there is anything wrong in walking through farmland. It's just it would not have any of the dramatic scenery of the previous 120 miles.
In hindsight we should have taken more time over this section for a couple of reasons. This section of the walk should be viewed as a time to recuperate and relax before the final push across the North Yorkshire Moors. Also 23 miles was a long way. I thought at this stage on the walk we would be able to cope but I didn't factor in the tiredness that was building up. It may have been better to shorten the day as many of the Coast to Coasters we met were doing.
Anyway I personally found the field sections difficult due to the muddy paths. We were slipping along rarther than walking. Subsequently Nicky found a nice bed of nettles to lay in and the old man, fighting some nettles, also landed firmly on his arse. Much to everyone's amusement.
We left Richmond at 8:00am in pouring rain that didn't really let up until we approached Bolton on Swale. At Danby Wiske we stopped for a swift half or two and a bite to eat at The White Swan. Then we pressed onto Ingleby Cross. Arriving at the Blue Bell Inn for a well deserved pint at 6:30pm. I must admit the last couple of miles were very very long......
-- Posted from my iPhone
In hindsight we should have taken more time over this section for a couple of reasons. This section of the walk should be viewed as a time to recuperate and relax before the final push across the North Yorkshire Moors. Also 23 miles was a long way. I thought at this stage on the walk we would be able to cope but I didn't factor in the tiredness that was building up. It may have been better to shorten the day as many of the Coast to Coasters we met were doing.
Anyway I personally found the field sections difficult due to the muddy paths. We were slipping along rarther than walking. Subsequently Nicky found a nice bed of nettles to lay in and the old man, fighting some nettles, also landed firmly on his arse. Much to everyone's amusement.
We left Richmond at 8:00am in pouring rain that didn't really let up until we approached Bolton on Swale. At Danby Wiske we stopped for a swift half or two and a bite to eat at The White Swan. Then we pressed onto Ingleby Cross. Arriving at the Blue Bell Inn for a well deserved pint at 6:30pm. I must admit the last couple of miles were very very long......
-- Posted from my iPhone
Day 10 - Reeth to Richmond
Not much to say about today apart from it was a very nice 10.5 mile walk. There was 1100 feet of ascent most of which was in two main stages. One on leaving the old Priory just before Marrick. The other up to the white cairn underneath Applegarth Scar.
We set off from Reeth at around 8:45am with the aim of reaching Richmond by 1:00pm. If all went well the second objective was to push on to Bolton-on-Swale during the afternoon. The thought of pushing on was to reduce day 11 by 6.5 miles.
Weather wise, it was raining as we set off from Reeth becoming warm and humid as we progressed through the meadows of Swaledale.
After stopping for a bite to eat just short of Richmond. We set off again only to see Nicky start to limp. Her right hamstring and calf muscle were becoming painful. This put an end to the second objective of the day.
-- Posted from my iPhone
We set off from Reeth at around 8:45am with the aim of reaching Richmond by 1:00pm. If all went well the second objective was to push on to Bolton-on-Swale during the afternoon. The thought of pushing on was to reduce day 11 by 6.5 miles.
Weather wise, it was raining as we set off from Reeth becoming warm and humid as we progressed through the meadows of Swaledale.
After stopping for a bite to eat just short of Richmond. We set off again only to see Nicky start to limp. Her right hamstring and calf muscle were becoming painful. This put an end to the second objective of the day.
-- Posted from my iPhone
Wednesday 22 June 2011
Day 9 - Keld to Reeth
This was a 12 mile saunter down Swaledale. Starting at Keld we were still in upper Swaledale. High moors surrounding us and a choice of two routes. The high route over the moors or the low valley route. After the adventures on day 7 we chose the valley route.
It was very picturesque with many water falls at the beginning of the walk. Their reddy-brown water swelling the river Swale. After all the dead animals we've seen on route we did come across a skeleton of a dead tractor.
As we passed through Gunnerside we had a welcome pit-stop at the King's Head. The excuse was to escape possibly the heaviest shower of the day. The route became more rural as we progressed down the valley. Ending the day as a stroll along the widening river. But this was not with out incident. The old'un nearly came a cropper while negotiating a stream crossing where the bridge had been washed away. A hastily improvised pirouette mid stream saved my blushes. But did bring howls of laughter from the crowd.
Though there are many more miles to tread I am already feeling a modicum of sadness that this adventure is coming to an end. But this is tainted with the grim prospect of the tedious tramp though the Vale of Mowbray.
Damage report:
A trio of weary souls or is that soles.......
Oh forgot to mention, all the aches and pains in the old'uns feet went away as soon as I put them in my boots. Surely they couldn't have been pining to do some walking yesterday...?
-- Posted from my iPhone
It was very picturesque with many water falls at the beginning of the walk. Their reddy-brown water swelling the river Swale. After all the dead animals we've seen on route we did come across a skeleton of a dead tractor.
As we passed through Gunnerside we had a welcome pit-stop at the King's Head. The excuse was to escape possibly the heaviest shower of the day. The route became more rural as we progressed down the valley. Ending the day as a stroll along the widening river. But this was not with out incident. The old'un nearly came a cropper while negotiating a stream crossing where the bridge had been washed away. A hastily improvised pirouette mid stream saved my blushes. But did bring howls of laughter from the crowd.
Though there are many more miles to tread I am already feeling a modicum of sadness that this adventure is coming to an end. But this is tainted with the grim prospect of the tedious tramp though the Vale of Mowbray.
Damage report:
A trio of weary souls or is that soles.......
Oh forgot to mention, all the aches and pains in the old'uns feet went away as soon as I put them in my boots. Surely they couldn't have been pining to do some walking yesterday...?
-- Posted from my iPhone
Tuesday 21 June 2011
Day 8 - Moving / Rest day
Day 8 saw us move our base camp from Sue and David's mobile home near Penrith to Ros's (my fiancee) sister's lodge near Leyburn. Ros while now act as sherpa/taxi driver for the rest of the walk. Unfortunately mobile phone reception is very poor at the lodge so blog entries will be posted as soon as we reach somewhere when I can pick up a signal.
During the day my feet gradually became very painful. I soaked them in ibuprofen gel in the hope they recover enough for the following day's walk. Is this a case of, as I've stopped my body is relaxing and starting to complain? One of us will get a rude awakening tomorrow.....
During the day my feet gradually became very painful. I soaked them in ibuprofen gel in the hope they recover enough for the following day's walk. Is this a case of, as I've stopped my body is relaxing and starting to complain? One of us will get a rude awakening tomorrow.....
End of day 7
Very very boggy sums up day 7 rather well.
We set off from Newbiggin-on-Lune at 8:45am and eventually reached Keld at 6:30pm. What a day. We think we walked in the region of 21 miles but this does depend on which books we go by. There was also the ascent up Nine Standards Rigg at 2172 feet. What the total ascent during the day was is confusing. I'll have to get the measuring tool out at somepoint.
We all thought of this day as a day of two halves. The first being the 7 miles from Newbiggin-on-Lune to Kirkby Stephen which was our previous day's destination. The second half being Kirkby Stephen to Keld.
We set off in near perfect conditions, overcast but warm we were all in shirts and T-shirts. After about an hour it started to rain. A fine drizzle at first and gradually heavier as we progressed across Smardale Fell and farmland leading into Kirkby Stephen. Interest for myself was a disused railway winding it's way through Smardale with a fine viaduct further up the valley. I think part of the old Tebay to Darlington route. Then we passed under the Settle-Carlisle Railway. As we approached Kirkby Stephen we could see that our route beyond was shrouded in mist. A depressing thought, getting to a big landmark, on the route, of Nine Standards Rigg and not being able to fully appreciate the views.
Reaching Kirby Stephen we found shelter in the entrance to the church grounds. A lunch break was taken during which the heavens opened. It was a lucky break for us as the weather started to clear. We left the town in better heart for the 2 hour slog up to Nine Standards Rigg. On the way the ground got progressively water logged and one bridge across a gill was under water. A small warning for what was to follow. By the time we reached the top the weather had cleared enough for us to appreciate the views as a reward for our efforts.
---Photos to appear here later---
Now for the descent. The ground was water logged. At times it seemed we were walking in one big puddle. It took us 20 minutes to cross one of the deep gullies that barred our path. It was a peat quagmire that with the erosion of many boots was impassable on the direct route.
We continued and came across many more similar gullies/gills. In one I lost my left leg up to my knee. Nice......Further on we had to improvise bridging swollen gills as the existing crossing was flooded.
By the time we reached Ravenseat Chris's boots were water logged. On reaching the Keld road he decided to walk the last mile bare foot. During this last section Chris met a couple of Americans who had reached the summit only an hour or so prior to ourselves. Due to adverse weather they actually had to retreat from Nine Standards and skirt the moor on the longer (and drier) green route. This highlights how lucky we were to make it across in relatively fine conditions.
Day 7 was a highlight in many ways, it was the day we achieved halfway, it was the day we passed the water shed where all streams/rivers now follow eastwards, it was also a boggy adventure.
What a way to spend Fathers' day.
-- Posted from my iPhone
Sunday 19 June 2011
Day 7 - Nine Standards
We've reached The Nine Standards!!! Halfway? All streams/river flow east from this point.....
-- Posted from my iPhone
Saturday 18 June 2011
End of Day 6
Today was supposed to be an easy 20 miles with roughly 350 feet of ascent. It didn't turn out that way....
The weather was persistent rain but thankfully little wind. We crossed the M6 and gaining a little height onto the subsequent low moors. These moors, though having their own bleak beauty, seemed almost featureless especially after the drama of the Lakeland Fells. Along with the weather conditions this made the walk a little monotonous.
I was also starting to get worried about Nicky. Within the first 7 miles she was lagging behind by some distance, stopping at least fours times to try and be sick. She admitted at one stage that her eyes were shutting while she was walking....! By the time we reached Orton Scar it was obvious that she was not going to make the full distance. A committee meeting was called while some food was eaten.
View from the disused Kiln beneath Orton Scar,
where we stopped for the committee meeting.
Keld is halfway and to keep to schedule we need to arrive there at the end of day 7. To cut the day short at Orton would leave about 23 miles to Keld the following day (day 7) including nearly 1700 feet of ascent. Possibly, for us, too much for one day. With some food down us it was decided that we should push on and cross Ravenstonedale Moor (just north of Newbiggin-on-Lune) and arrange to be picked up at around 2:30pm. Thus giving Nicky some time back at Sue and David's to catch up on some sleep during the afternoon.
So not a good day at the office. It has left us with approximately 17 miles to reach Keld tomorrow. This should be doable as long as Nicky has recovered enough over night.
Damage report:
Nicky, exhausted; Chris, tired; the old man, dare I say, feeling OK
The weather was persistent rain but thankfully little wind. We crossed the M6 and gaining a little height onto the subsequent low moors. These moors, though having their own bleak beauty, seemed almost featureless especially after the drama of the Lakeland Fells. Along with the weather conditions this made the walk a little monotonous.
I was also starting to get worried about Nicky. Within the first 7 miles she was lagging behind by some distance, stopping at least fours times to try and be sick. She admitted at one stage that her eyes were shutting while she was walking....! By the time we reached Orton Scar it was obvious that she was not going to make the full distance. A committee meeting was called while some food was eaten.
View from the disused Kiln beneath Orton Scar,where we stopped for the committee meeting.
Keld is halfway and to keep to schedule we need to arrive there at the end of day 7. To cut the day short at Orton would leave about 23 miles to Keld the following day (day 7) including nearly 1700 feet of ascent. Possibly, for us, too much for one day. With some food down us it was decided that we should push on and cross Ravenstonedale Moor (just north of Newbiggin-on-Lune) and arrange to be picked up at around 2:30pm. Thus giving Nicky some time back at Sue and David's to catch up on some sleep during the afternoon.
So not a good day at the office. It has left us with approximately 17 miles to reach Keld tomorrow. This should be doable as long as Nicky has recovered enough over night.
Damage report:
Nicky, exhausted; Chris, tired; the old man, dare I say, feeling OK
Day 5 - Additional comments
Extreme may be one comment I could add to Nicky's blog for day 5. Another might be memorable.
The weather certainly played a huge part in the days experience. The rain was horizontal once we reached the top of Beckstones (just beyond Boredale Hause). It felt like sleet on the face. Cold and biting. Apart from a few respites it stayed that way until we started the descent from Kidsty Pike to Haweswater. On the traverse to Kidsty Pike Chris decided to test the winds strength. He jumped up vertically and landed at least one foot to his left. That was not during one of the many gusts that very nearly floored us.
At 2500 feet Kidsty Pike is the highest point on the walk. It certainly left an impression as to what the Lake District can throw at you in the summer months.
Even though most of the views between Patterdale and Haweswater were shrouded in mist of the rain, we could still take in the awesome majestic scenery that surrounded us. There was talk of 'we will have to do this section again'.....
Sadly, that is goodbye to the Lakes.
Damage report:
Nicky, bruised ankle from boot rubbing and right shin a little tender; Chris, aching knees; the old man.... My knees were screaming 'please, no more'.
-- Posted from my iPhone
The weather certainly played a huge part in the days experience. The rain was horizontal once we reached the top of Beckstones (just beyond Boredale Hause). It felt like sleet on the face. Cold and biting. Apart from a few respites it stayed that way until we started the descent from Kidsty Pike to Haweswater. On the traverse to Kidsty Pike Chris decided to test the winds strength. He jumped up vertically and landed at least one foot to his left. That was not during one of the many gusts that very nearly floored us.
At 2500 feet Kidsty Pike is the highest point on the walk. It certainly left an impression as to what the Lake District can throw at you in the summer months.
Even though most of the views between Patterdale and Haweswater were shrouded in mist of the rain, we could still take in the awesome majestic scenery that surrounded us. There was talk of 'we will have to do this section again'.....
Sadly, that is goodbye to the Lakes.
Damage report:
Nicky, bruised ankle from boot rubbing and right shin a little tender; Chris, aching knees; the old man.... My knees were screaming 'please, no more'.
-- Posted from my iPhone
Friday 17 June 2011
Day 5 - Patterdale to Shap
Today was tough. We are all well weathered.
The books said it was a day of 16 mile with 2500 feet of ascent (another book states 4400 feet of total ascent taking in to account all ups and downs). So we set off at 8:30am and had reached Boredale Hause by 9:05am 660 feet in no time at all.
Looking back down to Patterdale from Boredale Hause
It was raining lightly at the start but as the morning went on the weather proceeded to get worse. From Boredale Hause we carried on round, up to Angle Tarn. The views were still good even though the larger peeks around us were in mist. We could see Brothers Water but were then hanging on for the sight of Haweswater as we carried on round to Kidsty Pike.We were walking against horizontal heavy rain and gusts of winds of what felt like up to 100mph. As soon as Haweswater was in sight we could see the path round to the peek of Kidsty Pike. The winds were getting no better, it was tough. The way down Kidsty was particulary difficult for myself (Nicky) struggling with my knees as it was a very steep descent. Dad and Chris seemed to get down quite easily. Though I didn't see Chris slide down on his arse for a metre......
Even though we felt like we had done the toughest part of the day we could see the length of Haweswater stretching out ahead. This was going to be a long slog in the rain.
Then of course once we had got to the end of the reservoir we still a nice 5 miles amble across the fields to Shap, looking back upon the lakes for the last time. They have certainly treated us well over the last 5 days and they couldn't let us leave with out a spot of traditional lakes weather.
Goodbye to the Lakes.
Looking back towards the Lakes over Shap Abbey
This was a long day, over different terrains and the weather did brighten up for us towards the end. We arrived in Shap at The Kings Arms at 5.20pm, I was buzzin, whereas Chris and Dad just wanted their well deserved pint after a very enjoyable day all round. We were all apprehensive about today as it was the longest miles and highest ascent so far but I feel like it went a lot better than we first imagined even with the crazy weather, but I cant speak for Dad and Chris.
A good nights rest and up early again tomorrow for an easy 20 miles!!!!
Nicky
The books said it was a day of 16 mile with 2500 feet of ascent (another book states 4400 feet of total ascent taking in to account all ups and downs). So we set off at 8:30am and had reached Boredale Hause by 9:05am 660 feet in no time at all.
Looking back down to Patterdale from Boredale HauseIt was raining lightly at the start but as the morning went on the weather proceeded to get worse. From Boredale Hause we carried on round, up to Angle Tarn. The views were still good even though the larger peeks around us were in mist. We could see Brothers Water but were then hanging on for the sight of Haweswater as we carried on round to Kidsty Pike.We were walking against horizontal heavy rain and gusts of winds of what felt like up to 100mph. As soon as Haweswater was in sight we could see the path round to the peek of Kidsty Pike. The winds were getting no better, it was tough. The way down Kidsty was particulary difficult for myself (Nicky) struggling with my knees as it was a very steep descent. Dad and Chris seemed to get down quite easily. Though I didn't see Chris slide down on his arse for a metre......
Even though we felt like we had done the toughest part of the day we could see the length of Haweswater stretching out ahead. This was going to be a long slog in the rain.
Then of course once we had got to the end of the reservoir we still a nice 5 miles amble across the fields to Shap, looking back upon the lakes for the last time. They have certainly treated us well over the last 5 days and they couldn't let us leave with out a spot of traditional lakes weather.
Goodbye to the Lakes.Looking back towards the Lakes over Shap Abbey
This was a long day, over different terrains and the weather did brighten up for us towards the end. We arrived in Shap at The Kings Arms at 5.20pm, I was buzzin, whereas Chris and Dad just wanted their well deserved pint after a very enjoyable day all round. We were all apprehensive about today as it was the longest miles and highest ascent so far but I feel like it went a lot better than we first imagined even with the crazy weather, but I cant speak for Dad and Chris.
A good nights rest and up early again tomorrow for an easy 20 miles!!!!
Nicky
Thursday 16 June 2011
End of day 4
That was a walk in the park!!! Perfect weather for it as well.
We are hoping that this a good sign and our legs are getting used to what we are asking of them. But we are under no illusion as tomorrow is a tough day.
Back to todays trek. We set off from Grasmere at 10:45am. The climb up to Grisedale Hause was complete by 12:30pm.
At this point our legs felt as fresh as when we started and from here it was was down hill all the way to Patterdale. The weather was still perfect and St. Sunday Crag was beckoning with the prospect of fine views.
View from Grisedale Hause looking over Grisedale Tarn, down Grisedale valley.
St. Sunday Crag is on the right.
A committee meeting was held to decide which route to take down to Patterdale. Keep to the traditional Cost to Coast route down the valley or detour over St. Sunday Crag. It was swayed by the common sense view of Nicky, against the bravado of the boys. The argument she used was 'we have a tough day ahead if us tomorrow' she didn't what to do anything that might jeopardise us completing the walk. Hmmm.....we were not happy, and we didn't let her off lightly as we continued down the valley to Patterdale. At least she bought us a pint.
Damage report;
None from Nicky and Chris and the old man's blister has not matured....
We are hoping that this a good sign and our legs are getting used to what we are asking of them. But we are under no illusion as tomorrow is a tough day.
Back to todays trek. We set off from Grasmere at 10:45am. The climb up to Grisedale Hause was complete by 12:30pm.
Retrospective view from Grisedale Hause looking towards Grasmere
At this point our legs felt as fresh as when we started and from here it was was down hill all the way to Patterdale. The weather was still perfect and St. Sunday Crag was beckoning with the prospect of fine views.
View from Grisedale Hause looking over Grisedale Tarn, down Grisedale valley.St. Sunday Crag is on the right.
A committee meeting was held to decide which route to take down to Patterdale. Keep to the traditional Cost to Coast route down the valley or detour over St. Sunday Crag. It was swayed by the common sense view of Nicky, against the bravado of the boys. The argument she used was 'we have a tough day ahead if us tomorrow' she didn't what to do anything that might jeopardise us completing the walk. Hmmm.....we were not happy, and we didn't let her off lightly as we continued down the valley to Patterdale. At least she bought us a pint.
Damage report;
None from Nicky and Chris and the old man's blister has not matured....
Day 4 - Today's climb
Right hand side of Great Tongue (the little bump in the middle distance), up to Grisedale Hause in the V above Great Tongue.-- Posted from my iPhone
Day 4 - Grasmere to Patterdale
This should be the easiest day of the Lakeland section. In mileage it is possibly the shortest with only 1650 feet of ascent. Again planned to let our bodies try and come to terms with what we're asking of them before some tough days ahead.
We missed out Helm Crag yesterday and will probably not climb Hellvelyn today. Though a guide we met yesterday suggested we take in St. Sunday Crag for better views. The walking committee decided that it would best to concentrate on completing the Coast to Coast. Other days can be spent walking the fells. Not fully sure about this myself but do understand the reasoning.....
Nicky did concede last night that she struggled yesterday with her shoulders and sun burn. So to try and help recovery, Chris and I will split her ruck sack between ours allowing her to have today carrying no weight.
One other thing I didn't mention is in last night's entry. We are back at Sue and David's mobile home. Sue picked us up in Grasmere yesterday. She will be driving us back there this morning to start todays expedition, then collect our weary selves in Patterdale this afternoon.
The weather forecast is good, clear skies from midday but I've put my shorts on so it's bound to rain.
-- Posted from my iPhone
We missed out Helm Crag yesterday and will probably not climb Hellvelyn today. Though a guide we met yesterday suggested we take in St. Sunday Crag for better views. The walking committee decided that it would best to concentrate on completing the Coast to Coast. Other days can be spent walking the fells. Not fully sure about this myself but do understand the reasoning.....
Nicky did concede last night that she struggled yesterday with her shoulders and sun burn. So to try and help recovery, Chris and I will split her ruck sack between ours allowing her to have today carrying no weight.
One other thing I didn't mention is in last night's entry. We are back at Sue and David's mobile home. Sue picked us up in Grasmere yesterday. She will be driving us back there this morning to start todays expedition, then collect our weary selves in Patterdale this afternoon.
The weather forecast is good, clear skies from midday but I've put my shorts on so it's bound to rain.
-- Posted from my iPhone
Wednesday 15 June 2011
End of day 3
Well, we took the day easy and it was very enjoyable. Setting off from Rosthwaite at around 10:00am eventually reaching Grasmere at 4:00pm. A very sedate pace.
Even though it was raining when we set off it was a welcome break to the heat of the day before. A good steady climb up to Greenup Edge included an interesting section at the side of Lining Crag. This was where a stream had taken ownership of the path making the climb a little tricky in parts.
At the top, on Greenup Edge, it was very boggy. While traversing the ridge walkers have trodden many paths trying to avoid loosing boots in the sodden ground, us included. This did cause us to wander around a little to find the correct path down. The decent was easy paced with sections of yet more boggy ground.
With all the water coming off the fells, Greenup Gill (on the way up) and Easedale Beck (on the way down) were flowing well. The sound of water running and cascading over rocks was never far away. A few of the waterfalls did invite a stop or two.
Damage report:
Chris has another blister; Nicky is suffering from sun burn and aching shoulders; and the old man looks like he might be getting his first blister....! Apart from that we all feel pretty good.
-- Posted from my iPhone
Even though it was raining when we set off it was a welcome break to the heat of the day before. A good steady climb up to Greenup Edge included an interesting section at the side of Lining Crag. This was where a stream had taken ownership of the path making the climb a little tricky in parts.
At the top, on Greenup Edge, it was very boggy. While traversing the ridge walkers have trodden many paths trying to avoid loosing boots in the sodden ground, us included. This did cause us to wander around a little to find the correct path down. The decent was easy paced with sections of yet more boggy ground.
With all the water coming off the fells, Greenup Gill (on the way up) and Easedale Beck (on the way down) were flowing well. The sound of water running and cascading over rocks was never far away. A few of the waterfalls did invite a stop or two.
Damage report:
Chris has another blister; Nicky is suffering from sun burn and aching shoulders; and the old man looks like he might be getting his first blister....! Apart from that we all feel pretty good.
-- Posted from my iPhone
Greenup Edge
Another 1800 foot ridge crossed. Bassenthwaite Lake can be seen in the distance
Now we head down to Grasmere...
-- Posted from my iPhone
Top of Lining Crag
Top of Lining Crag looking back towards Rosthwaite, may be able to see Bassenthwaite Lake in the distance.
About another 150 feet of ascent to reach Greenup Edge and then the decent to Grasmere.
-- Posted from my iPhone
Location:Keswick,United Kingdom
Day 3 Rosthwaite to Grasmere
When we left Ennerdale Bridge, at the start of day two, today's weather was set for rain and it is raining. After yesterday this might be welcome, as long as it doesn't hinder the passage over the top to Grasmere. On route yesterday we met a group that completed the Coast to Coast last year. They were very supportive, "it does get easier", "once out of the Lakes you will be able to tackle any ascent with ease". But day two for them was horrendous. There were 26 people at Black Sail doing the Coast to Coast. Due to low cloud and torrential rain only a handful made it over the top to Rosthwaite. This is the Lakes so we do expect rain at some point. We're just hoping it won't hinder us.
I've planned today as a short day. According to the books only 7-8 miles but with another 1740 feet of ascent. The idea being we could take our time and enjoy the route. Also I thought we would appreciate a slower day to help our legs adjust. We will see.....
One last thing, this is the last day with the big rucksacks. From day four onwards it will be day sacks all round. Excellent, as Chris's and my shoulders are starting to complain a little.
-- Posted from my iPhone
I've planned today as a short day. According to the books only 7-8 miles but with another 1740 feet of ascent. The idea being we could take our time and enjoy the route. Also I thought we would appreciate a slower day to help our legs adjust. We will see.....
One last thing, this is the last day with the big rucksacks. From day four onwards it will be day sacks all round. Excellent, as Chris's and my shoulders are starting to complain a little.
-- Posted from my iPhone
Top of Loft Beck
At last I have a phone signal. Time to catch up on blog entries. There should be two prior to this one.
View back over Ennerdale Lake with the Isle of Man in the far distance.
Then slightly to the right of the above photo.
View to Scotland over Crummock Water.
Absolutely fantastic, this is what fell walking is all about, the views, the isolation and the satisfaction that comes from aching limbs.
Doh .... lost signal, O2 & Vodafone signal is still available. Why did I change to crappy T-Mobile/Orange? I'll post this when I'm near a city that has high number of landlines with arms reach...... Honestly, I'm at 1800 feet, how can the signal be there with 3-4 bars only to disappear never to return....
-- Posted from my iPhone
View back over Ennerdale Lake with the Isle of Man in the far distance.
Then slightly to the right of the above photo.
View to Scotland over Crummock Water.
Absolutely fantastic, this is what fell walking is all about, the views, the isolation and the satisfaction that comes from aching limbs.
Doh .... lost signal, O2 & Vodafone signal is still available. Why did I change to crappy T-Mobile/Orange? I'll post this when I'm near a city that has high number of landlines with arms reach...... Honestly, I'm at 1800 feet, how can the signal be there with 3-4 bars only to disappear never to return....
-- Posted from my iPhone
End of 2nd Day
That day was tough... We all think mainly because of the weather. It was hot, clear skies, sun beating down, hardly any breeze in the valleys. Even over the top of the fells it was still tee shirt conditions. I know we sound like we are grumbling but we're not as it gave some fantastic views along the way. Views we will never forget.
We left Ennerdale Bridge at around 9:00am. In taking the southern route along Ennerdale Water we possibly added a good 30 minutes to the journey. This was due to just enjoying the route and taking in the beautiful scenery.
View up Ennerdale Water.
Once the end of the Lake was reached we stopped for a light bite. Afterwards we swooped to the northern forest track to continue to Black Sail YH. This was possibly the worst part of the day. With the heat and no breeze the track seemed to go on forever.
Eventually we reached Black Sail at around 1:30pm. Stopped for a good 40 minutes for lunch and took in the views of Great Gable, Green Gable, Kirk Fell and Hay Stacks rising around us.
Black Sail YH is the hut in the distance. In the distance can be seen Green Gable centre right with Great Gable top right.
After Black Sail we climbed out of the valley via Loft Beck. This exit cannot be seen on the above photo but the top is in the V above the hut. The climb was not as stiff as we thought and we reached the top in reasonable condition.
From there there was a little more ascent before the long decent via Honister Pass to Rosthwaite. Reaching our accommodation, The Royal Oak, for the night at 5:55pm.
14 miles, 1740 feet in 9 hours with two stops for grub and many stops for water along with dipping our heads in the many streams along the way to cool down.
Damage report;
Nicky's caught too much sun, and her shins hurt along with general aches; Chris has a blister along with aches in legs and shoulders; the old man just aches. A tough day.
Again we have no mobile signal here in Rosthwaite.
-- Posted from my iPhone
We left Ennerdale Bridge at around 9:00am. In taking the southern route along Ennerdale Water we possibly added a good 30 minutes to the journey. This was due to just enjoying the route and taking in the beautiful scenery.
View up Ennerdale Water.
Once the end of the Lake was reached we stopped for a light bite. Afterwards we swooped to the northern forest track to continue to Black Sail YH. This was possibly the worst part of the day. With the heat and no breeze the track seemed to go on forever.
Eventually we reached Black Sail at around 1:30pm. Stopped for a good 40 minutes for lunch and took in the views of Great Gable, Green Gable, Kirk Fell and Hay Stacks rising around us.
Black Sail YH is the hut in the distance. In the distance can be seen Green Gable centre right with Great Gable top right.
After Black Sail we climbed out of the valley via Loft Beck. This exit cannot be seen on the above photo but the top is in the V above the hut. The climb was not as stiff as we thought and we reached the top in reasonable condition.
From there there was a little more ascent before the long decent via Honister Pass to Rosthwaite. Reaching our accommodation, The Royal Oak, for the night at 5:55pm.
14 miles, 1740 feet in 9 hours with two stops for grub and many stops for water along with dipping our heads in the many streams along the way to cool down.
Damage report;
Nicky's caught too much sun, and her shins hurt along with general aches; Chris has a blister along with aches in legs and shoulders; the old man just aches. A tough day.
Again we have no mobile signal here in Rosthwaite.
-- Posted from my iPhone
Day 2 Ennerdale to Rosthwaite
We woke to blue skies with scattered cloud, the forecast is for a fine, warm day. My knees were a little stiff first thing but soon loosened off. Nicky and Chris seem like they have recovered from the first day.
After a couple of pints, excellent pub grub last night a good kip, and a healthy hearty breakfast, we're set up for the today's trek. This could be a tough day in hot weather, approximately 14 miles with 1700 feet of ascent. It looks like most of the ascent is after Black Sail Youth Hostel, climbing out of Ennerdale.
Onwards and upwards!!!
-- Posted from my iPhone
After a couple of pints, excellent pub grub last night a good kip, and a healthy hearty breakfast, we're set up for the today's trek. This could be a tough day in hot weather, approximately 14 miles with 1700 feet of ascent. It looks like most of the ascent is after Black Sail Youth Hostel, climbing out of Ennerdale.
Onwards and upwards!!!
-- Posted from my iPhone
Ennerdale Bridge
There was no reception on all our phones in Ennerdale so this has been posted ASAP.
We were bathed in beautiful weather as we decended down into Ennerdale Bridge. Arriving at The Shepherd's Arms at 4:50pm
View up the Ennerdale Valley, which awaits us tomorrow.
We all came through the day pretty well unscathed. Nicky suffered a slight pull on a thigh muscle on the Dent ascent, Chris's feet are a little tender but nothing to worry about. Surprisingly the old man feels good, I'll need a few stretches later but ankles and knees have survived. Oh that is apart from Nicky falling on her arse. Granted it was on a very steep decent from Dent but we did laugh...
There was a slight (Johnson) alteration to the route. Dare I say we took a wrong turn, nah it was planned. We picked up a cycle route that took us away from the road work leading into and through Moor Row.
-- Posted from my iPhone
We were bathed in beautiful weather as we decended down into Ennerdale Bridge. Arriving at The Shepherd's Arms at 4:50pm
View up the Ennerdale Valley, which awaits us tomorrow.
We all came through the day pretty well unscathed. Nicky suffered a slight pull on a thigh muscle on the Dent ascent, Chris's feet are a little tender but nothing to worry about. Surprisingly the old man feels good, I'll need a few stretches later but ankles and knees have survived. Oh that is apart from Nicky falling on her arse. Granted it was on a very steep decent from Dent but we did laugh...
There was a slight (Johnson) alteration to the route. Dare I say we took a wrong turn, nah it was planned. We picked up a cycle route that took us away from the road work leading into and through Moor Row.
-- Posted from my iPhone
Monday 13 June 2011
Halfway up Dent
The view back towards the coast. St. Bees to the left with the Isle of Man in distance
-- Posted from my iPhone
View of Dent
Next climb up Dent, Ennerdale beyond. We're doing OK.
-- Posted from my iPhone
Location:Summer Grove,Weddicar,United Kingdom
Sunday 12 June 2011
All set for tomorrow
We're all set for the big start tomorrow. Currently staying over at Sue (Nicky & Chris's Mum) and David's mobile home near Penrith. Sue pushed the boat out for the evening meal. A stonking Beef Wellington as a celebratory pre-event good luck meal. (Sorry Ros but it was very nice). After being on a veggie diet for most of the last few years, just hope my constitution copes!
So rucksacks are packed, planning discussed, no more dreaming of doing the walk, this it. There will be an early start tomorrow as we are about 1.5 hours from St.Bees and we want to be on the beach by 8:30am.
With a little intrepidation I'm looking forward to getting started.....
-- Posted from my iPhone
So rucksacks are packed, planning discussed, no more dreaming of doing the walk, this it. There will be an early start tomorrow as we are about 1.5 hours from St.Bees and we want to be on the beach by 8:30am.
With a little intrepidation I'm looking forward to getting started.....
-- Posted from my iPhone
Location:Hesket,United Kingdom
Friday 10 June 2011
The initial plan
What is this all about then?
.........a long time ambition of mine is to spend a (relaxing??) fortnight walking Wainwright's Coast to Coast walk. This walk is approximately 190 miles, but according to a recent re-measuring the real distance is almost 220. The route of the walk passes through some of England's most beautiful and wild countryside, crossing the Pennines and three National Parks: The Lake District, The Yorkshire Dales National Park, and the The North Yorkshire Moors.
My ambition had been to complete the walk before I reached my 50th birthday, unfortunately I have past that landmark. So, before it becomes an impossible dream I've decided to give it a go. Nicky and Chris, my two offspring, will be my companions for the adventure. During the expedition we will have the help and support of their mother and my fiancée. More of how will probably come to light later in the blog.
The training has not gone fully to plan but I have completed in excess of 200 miles during the last three months. This is probably not enough and it has brought to my attention issues with joints.
We will be starting from St. Bees on Monday 13th June hoping to reach Robin Hoods Bay on Sunday 26th. During the walk I will try and post photos along the way and make brief diary entries in the evening (that is if I have reception for my phone).
Watch this space................
My ambition had been to complete the walk before I reached my 50th birthday, unfortunately I have past that landmark. So, before it becomes an impossible dream I've decided to give it a go. Nicky and Chris, my two offspring, will be my companions for the adventure. During the expedition we will have the help and support of their mother and my fiancée. More of how will probably come to light later in the blog.
The training has not gone fully to plan but I have completed in excess of 200 miles during the last three months. This is probably not enough and it has brought to my attention issues with joints.
We will be starting from St. Bees on Monday 13th June hoping to reach Robin Hoods Bay on Sunday 26th. During the walk I will try and post photos along the way and make brief diary entries in the evening (that is if I have reception for my phone).
Watch this space................
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